Jan 29, 2015

A jacket with double lapels

Finally I have an actual garment to show you, as I have finally pushed myself to snap some pics of a new jacket that comes straight out of my sewing desk.

I've been collecting pics of jackets with some interesting details on Pinterest for a while. I love unusual lapels, collars, button closures, and all the details that make a garment stand out from everything else you see. I am frequently inspired by more than one details at the same time, and then I try to fit all these details into a single garment. In such case the art is to keep the things simple and not over-do a garment, so that at the end of the day it looks well styled and not costumey. Along with that I try to stay loyal to my personal style and make a garment that's pretty and comfy, and that I would wear gladly, The worst thing is when you invest a lot of time and effort into a garment you're not thrilled with.

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels, inspiration
Left to tight: (1) unknown designer; (2) Alexander McQueen; (3) Haider Ackermann

This time I wanted to experiment with a double set of lapels. The idea came from the denim jacket (left on the picture) that I don't know who designed it. I loved the double set of lapels, as it's not a detail you can frequently see on clothes. However, I didn't want to make the jacket too casual, so I desiced to avoid using denim and twill. Leather sounded like a much better idea.

I also didn't want to use zipper, even though I normally like how it looks on jackets. But I have already made several jackets in a row which all feature zippers, so this time I wanted to make something different. So I thought of having a button closure with using metal frogs, like the one McQueen jacket had (in the middle on the picture). Along with the button closure, the McQueen jacket featured a gorgeous waist peplum that drew my attention. I didn't dare to make the peplum as voluminous as McQueen's is, but I did transfer some of its features to my jacket.

Finally, I wanted to add some eye catching detail to the back as well, so I added the folds to the back paplum resembling the ones I saw on Haider Ackerman's jacket (right on the picture).

You can see on the pictures below how the jacket turned out. I did'n make an exact copy paste of any of the details, but I did use the general ideas.

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

I used an artificial velour with a gorgeous weave, that can be easily mistaken for real leather suedue, as it looks and feels like one. I bought the fabric several years ago not having a clear idea of what I would use it for, so it sat down in the closet waiting for an inspiration. Since the fabric is woven, it is beautiful to work with - it can handle heat and ironing and it is not sensitive to needle penetration, so it was an easy job for me.

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

I really love the end result. I even think of copying the peplum detail on another jacket, and make it a bit more voluminous. We'll see what I'll think of meanwhile.

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